Friday, 4 October 2013

Alice Springs - a Great Place to Visit

We're having a great time in Alice Springs.  There's so much to do and see here.  We have both said we could happily live here in this remote place in the centre of Australia.  Alice Springs is about halfway between Adelaide in the south and Darwin in the north.  The weather has been hot during the day (27C - 39C and we are expecting 40+C next week) and cool at night (down to 6C overnight).  The countryside is stunning.  Rocky ridges of the Macdonnell Ranges are scattered through the town which is built on the flat plains and gaps in the ridges.  Magnificent ghost gums with their white trunks are everywhere.  Shopping facilities are very good as there are several shopping centres with supermarkets and specialty stores.  Art galleries specialising in Aboriginal Art abound.


Having set up camp at the show ground, we've been able to get our house in order.  We've done a good clean of the caravan - inside and out - and the car; so we don't have so much dust around us now.  We are having a very pleasant relaxing time.  We had planned to stay for a week after the muster ended but are staying for an extra week now so we can attend the Mbantua Festival which is on next week.  We're taking the opportunity to do some sightseeing too.


Anzac Hill provides excellent views of the town and surrounding areas - especially at sunset.  We're here during a one in 10 year wildflower event due to some rain about 3 months ago.  The flowers out in the desert are magnificent. 


Across the road from the Royal Flying Doctor Service near the hospital is the Salvation Army Community Centre and Waterhole Gallery.  We purchased some Aboriginal paintings from the gallery with the knowledge that most of the proceeds would go to the artist.  Prices were very reasonable and we also received a note with details about the artists.

We visited the Australian Womens Hall of Fame which is located in the Old Gaol which still has razor wire on the fence.  First we had a look around the gaol and the cells in both the men's and aboriginal women's blocks. The block which used to be the kitchen now houses the museum.  The displays focus on notable women.  Women who were first to achieve in their class - professions, sport, politics, science, the arts, entertainment; and other notable women.



There is a large tapestry depicting women in aviation and a series of "chicken drawings" from the CWA.

There's still plenty to see here so we will be kept busy for the next week and a half.  We are looking forward to the many activities and entertainment that will be on during the Mbantua Festival next week.


Adventure to Boggy Hole and Beyond


Just before 9am on Saturday 28th September 2013, a convoy of 7 vehicles left the Muster for a 2 day camping adventure to Boggy Hole in the Finke Gorge National Park.

Our first 130km was along Larapinta Drive to the town of Hermannsburg.  This historic town is National Trust listed and it was established in the 1880s as a Lutheran mission.  The Aboriginal settlement was the home of Albert Namatjira and prints and originals of his works can be seen there.  Many of the mission buildings are still within the historic precinct.  We took the opportunity to stop off for morning tea and several of us had delicious scones with jam and cream at the tea-house.

Then it was back into our vehicles and we said goodbye to the bitumen until Sunday afternoon.  As we bounced along the corrugated red dirt road towards Ellery Creek we saw plenty of evidence of brumbies and we were lucky to see some horses close to the road.  We had a brief stop to reduce tyre pressures in preparation for the sand and river beds we would soon be travelling along.



We travelled along the Ellery Creek river bed and soon came to the gated entry to the Finke Gorge National Park and proceeded along to the junction with the Finke River.  Travel was slow through the sand and river stones and of course the inevitable happened – bogged in the sand!  Two Toyotas got bogged and two GMCs overheated.  Snatch kits got a workout and after some impressive towing we were underway.

The scenery was spectacular – plenty of flowers, stunning gorges and magnificent trees.  Debris from previous floods piled up against the trees in the riverbed.





Going was very slow so we were pleased to arrive at Boggy Hole about 3.30pm.  We were all pretty tired so decided to camp here for the night. There were plenty of flat sandy campsites overlooked by a magnificent red rocky ridge with a view of the waterhole.  Unfortunately all of the waterholes we saw were stagnant  so we couldn’t have a cooling swim.  Once we had set up our camps, we settled down to a relaxing happy hour.  Welcome after the high level of concentration of the drive.  A couple of the party were feeling energetic enough to climb to the top of the ridge to admire the view – the rest of us stayed at the camp and waved enthusiastically when they reached the top.  Other walkers explored the waterhole area.


Since we stopped at Boggy Hole we planned to leave fairly early Sunday morning to complete our adventure.  At breakfast we were entertained by native miner birds harassing a crow – boy, did they give him a hard time!  Then we packed up and were off along the Finke River once again.  The 25km to Running Waters took us about 3 hours with a stop at a waterhole for morning tea just before we left the National Park.  More fantastic scenery had our cameras working overtime.  Once we passed Running Waters the driving became easier and we were able to speed up to 25kph.

 Our party split up about 11km from Running Waters so our tour leader could get a good view of Mt Caldwell, named for his great grandfather. Robert Caldwell MP was the Member for Yorke in the South Australian Parliament from 1887 to 1902. He then became the Member for Onkaparinga after he moved from the Yorke Peninsula to Woodside. He was an MP when the Federation took place in 1901. He successfully introduced legislation for women's suffrage and women we permitted to vote after this. This was long before such legislation was introduced in other states and indeed in England. He was responsible for assessing land for pastoral purposes and as such made many expeditions into SA interior, which then included Northern Territory. These expeditions were made on Camels from the rail terminals at Beltana, Mareee and Oodnadatta.  We think it was because of this, and his missionary (Methodist) work for aboriginal communities, that Mount Caldwell was named after him.  Mt Caldwell is the flat topped mountain in the photo.


Those not going to Illamurta Springs proceeded to Ernest Giles Road which seemed like a motorway when compared to the roads we had been on for the past 2 days.





Some of us stopped off at the Henbury Meteorite Craters formed about 4,000 years ago when a meteorite hit the earth.  It was easy to imagine the shockwave that would have been created by the impact and there are plenty of impact stones which show the effects of compression in the area.  Only 15km from the Henbury Meteorite Conservation Park we joined the Stuart Highway – ah bliss!!!


Four vehicles met up at the Stuarts Well Roadhouse for lunch – even though it was about 3pm.  We were revitalized by the cool drinks and food before proceeding back to the Muster - a bit later than planned but nonetheless in time to share a drink at the closing Happy Hour.

Our trip leaders did a fantastic job with plenty of warnings when needed and the removal of some pesky rocks – CH38 certainly was well used.  We all had a great and memorable time.

Spectacular Standley Chasm




It takes less than 1 hour to drive the 50km from Alice Springs to Standley Chasm or Angkerle Atwatye in the West Macdonnell Ranges.  This deep cleft in the rock has been formed by a tributary to the Finke River.









The Chasm is on private land owned by the Angkerle Aboriginal Corporation and a ticket from the kiosk is required to do the 1.2km walk along the path from the parking area into the Chasm.









It took us about 20 minutes to walk along the creek into the Chasm with its 80m high cliffs.  We had plenty of stops for photos.












Once inside the Chasm we were astounded by the colour of the rock walls - bright orange.  We were there just after noon, which is the best time because the sun is overhead and is shining into the Chasm.









After we got back to the kiosk we checked out the souvenir shop before having a picnic lunch at the grassy area nearby.  It's easy to visit Standley Chasm from Alice Springs in a few hours.

A Day in the West Macdonnell Ranges

Alice Springs is nestled among the  gaps in the rocky Macdonnell Ranges.  The town is built on the flat areas and everywhere we look there are rocky ridges.  To the west is the West Macdonnell Ranges and to the east is the East Macdonnell Ranges.

As we left the town we passed by the grave of John Flynn, a minister who started the Royal Flying Doctor Service.  The memorial on his grave is topped by a rock from the Devils Marbles.


We drove eastwards through the western ranges on our way from Kings Canyon to Alice Springs.  We decided to do a day trip west and stop off at some of the many gorges.  The weather was hot and windy so it was nice to be in the air-conditioned comfort of the car.


We headed west along Larapinta Drive and turned off about 50km out of Alice Springs into the ranges.  The scenery was beautiful and we could imagine Albert Namatjira and other painters with their easels painting the beautiful ghost gums with the mountains in the background.





Our first stop was for a short walk at the Ochre Pits where various coloured ochres can be seen in the riverbanks and cliffs.  Colours ranged from white through elbows to deep oranges and various shades of pink and red.





Back into the car and we continued west stopping at several lookouts along the way.  We had a picnic lunch at Redbank Gorge, almost 200km from Alice Springs near the western edge of the Macdonnell Ranges National Park just past Mt Sonder.





After lunch we drove east towards Glen Helen on the Finke River.  The Glen Helen Gorge is a popular picning and swimming spot for Alice Springs residents.  The "resort" provides camping, accommodation, a bar and a restaurant with live music facilities.  Tourists can take helicopter flights through the many gorges.




Then it was time to make our way back to Alice Springs through more stunning scenery.

A day well spent!


BOG Muster 2013 - OR - Life in the Prickle Paddock




The main reason for our visit to Alice Springs is to attend the annual Bushtracker Owners Group Muster.  About 120 Bushtracker caravans and their owners descended on Alice Springs and set up camp at the Motor Transport Hall of Fame about 8km from the town centre (affectionately known as "The Dustbowl").  There was no grass, water or power but there were plenty of PRICKLES!!

We've had a great time catching up with old friends and making some new ones, all bound together by a love of travel (and a definite dislike of dust and prickles).  The Committee did a great job and there were plenty of activities for us to attend.  The spit roast dinner was delicious as was the morning tea.  It's amazing what can be cooked up in a caravan oven.  Unfortunately our Camp Oven Cook-Off Competition was cancelled due to a total fire ban.  We've managed to hit unseasonably hot weather with maximum temperatures around 36C - 39C accompanied by strong hot winds.

Cherryl managed to sell just about everything she had made for the Market Day Stall.  So now has some cash to buy more craft materials to keep her busy.  She was also very happy to win a prize for one of her photos entered in the photo competition.

The Muster Dinner was a great success with a theme of Desert Dwellers.  We dressed in orange and Robert joined the parade as a frill necked lizard.

At the end of the Muster, after 10 days in the dust and prickles, we packed up and moved to Blatherskite Park (Alice Springs Showground) and the luxury of grass, power and water on tap.  BOGers have made a significant contribution to the Alice Springs economy as we all hit the shops and sights of the area.

The next Muster is in Western Australia and at this stage we're not sure if we'll be able to attend.