Wednesday 5 March 2014

Back to Central Queensland


We said farewell to Maroochydore on the Sunshine Coast of Queensland with a newly serviced caravan with a couple of modifications.  We decided to get rear stabilisers fitted to stop any bounce when we're camping; and we had a new cupboard built which fits under the dining table to store our computer gear and also act as a coffee table if we take off the table top.  We had the underneath re-sprayed with a protective coating; this needs to be done every couple of years and we're heading into some rough country over the next 12 months.
We drove inland from Gympie and Maryborough along the Wide Bay Highway to Biggenden, a small town with magnificent views of the Mount Walsh National Park.  We stayed there for 3 days so were able to relax do some sightseeing.  A sculpture of The Pioneer dominates the gardens in town.  A day trip to Paradise Dam took us through the Goodnight Scrub National Park.

From Biggenden we travelled along the Isis and Burnett Highways.  Morning tea was at Mundubbera Bicentennial Park next to the heritage steam train overlooking the lovely sculpture gardens.  Then on to Eidsvold where we would have visited the JM Williams Centre - if it had been open!  Unfortunately it was Sunday so many things were closed. 





Northwards to Monto which surprised us by its size, it was bigger than we expected.  The Town Hall is a large pink art deco style building.  Just outside town is "The Bunyip Hole" where, according to legend, a monster lives and sheep disappear.  The site is marked by a large sculpture of a mythical bunyip.




12km past Monto we turned right towards Cania Gorge.  We stayed at the Cania Gorge Tourist Park, just outside the Cania Gorge National Park.  This was a lovely grassy, well treed caravan park with wildlife and birds in abundance.  On one morning the park owner caught a 1.5m long goanna which had got into the chook shed, looking for eggs.


We drove the 13km to Cania Dam through the Cania Gorge National Park, stopping off to walk to Two Storey Cave.  Although it's only 1.5km, the walk took us about 45 minutes and we were very hot when we finished even though it was only 10am.  Great views and rocks on the way.  At King Orchid Cave we saw many orchids and stag horns clinging to the rocks.

At the dam there's a beautiful grassy day use area with good amenities - and full communications, so we were back the next day to make some phone calls and use the wifi.  We saw many whip tailed wallabies close to the road.  There's a big fishing competition here in early March - a couple of weeks too late for us unfortunately.


Back on our travels through the regional centre of Biloela and along the Dawson Highway through Banana to Moura where we camped at the Dawson River Campsite..  This little town shot to prominence a year or so ago when locals successfully lobbied the Queensland State Government to keep their hospital open. The town has a very active community and one of our fellow campers, who often camps here, arranged for the RSL Club Courtesy Bus to take us into town for the weekly barbecue dinner at the club.  It wasn't long before the place was full with locals and children everywhere.  We had a delicious dinner and then the bus delivered us safely back to our camps.  Our 2 days there were very enjoyable.

Our next stop was Carnarvon Gorge National Park.  We were last here about 38 years ago, camping in a tent with 2 small children.  It's still just as beautiful as it was then.  We booked into the Takarakka Bush Resort for 3 days - there's no camping allowed in the National Park.  Carnarvon Gorge is a real oasis in Queensland's sandstone country.  Rugged sandstone gorges with lush vegetation.  On one afternoon we cooled off in the waterhole while the tiny fish nibbled on us.

There are many walks, up the main gorge and side gorges.  We walked to the Moss Garden, about 8km return, with it's walls of moss, lichens and liverworts and pristine waterfall into a deep pool.  It was lovely and cool there after the heat of the main gorge.


Takarakka is 4km from the Visitor Centre at the National Park and there's an abundance of wildlife.  Platypus live in the nearby river, although we weren't lucky enough to see them - maybe next time.  There were plenty of pretty face wallabies around and other campers saw echidnas and green tree frogs.




About 2km from Takarakka is Baloon Cave which has a good display of aboriginal stencil paintings.  The short walk from the car park was well worth the effort.


Our stay at Carnarvon Gorge ended and we packed up and drove north towards Emerald.  We spent a few days at Capella, about 50km north of Emerald about a year ago.  This time we stopped off at the supermarket to boost the local economy and camped 15km out of town at Highlands Homestay, a delightful campground on private property near Lake Maraboon.

Onwards and westward into Central Queensland with an overnight stop at Jericho on the Jordan. We camped at Redbank Park, a great choice.  A few weeks ago Jericho had 250mm of rain in 3 hours and Redbank Park was flooded.  There was evidence of the recent flood, but the camping area was dry, level and solid.





Jericho plays on its "biblical" links with the Crystal Trumpets sculpture in the main street.  This sculpture recounts the bible story that Joshua and his army caused the walls of the city of Jericho to crumble by blowing their trumpets.








From Jericho we drove further west to Barcaldine, a town with significant links to Australian workers, unions and the Australian Labor Party.




Barcaldine is home to the Tree of Knowledge where the Australian Labor Party was formed following the Shearers Strike in 1891.  The tree itself was poisoned in 2006.  The root ball, trunk and branches of the Tree were preserved and form the foundation of the 18m high sculpture of The Memorial Tree which was unveiled in 2009, preserving this piece of Australian political history.




We spent the afternoon wandering around the Australian Workers Heritage Centre, a museum celebrating the history of Australian workers and the Union movement.  We found it very interesting and it was great to see a building dedicated to women in the workforce, paid and unpaid.  There were reconstructed buildings and exhibits related to railways, police, shearing, power industries, Australia Post, schools and emergency services among others.





We'll be here in Barcaldine for a couple of nights before heading further north and west.




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