The drive from Winton to Boulia really showed us what our wonderful country has to offer. We saw some of the best outback scenery on show. We love driving through this desert with its spectacular jump-ups. The soil changed constantly from black sticky soil at Winton to yellow and white sandstones and ochres to red sand. 
The drought has definitely not broken. There hasn't been much rain out here so although some of the countryside looks green, it's just a tinge. Where there's any length in the grass it's all annual grasses and more rain is desperately needed to encourage the perennial grasses back. Many of the graziers have destocked and reduced their herds to an absolute minimum.
We turned off the main highway to Mount Isa just our of Winton and headed west towards Middleton, about half way between Winton and Boulia. We thought we'd stay overnight at the Hilton Hotel Campsite (no air-con, no water, no power.... no charge). Middleton was a Cobb & Co coach stop in earlier times. Now it's just a pub. We had left Winton early so arrived well before lunch. We settled for icy cold drinks at the Middleton Pub and a chat to the publican before driving on to Boulia.
About 50km west of Middleton is the Cawnpore Lookout - the best 360 degree views this side of Alice Springs according to the publican at Middleton. And he's pretty right too. So we climbed up the small jump-up and took plenty of photos of the spectacular scenery.
Our next stop was at the Hamilton Hotel Rest Stop where we had lunch. The hotel burned down many years ao and all that's left now is its chimney. There's plenty of room for camping in this spot which is next to a RAMSAR wetlands which takes in the Hamilton River and it's surrounding flood plain. As with much of the channel country this was recently flooded as upstream water flowed down the river.
Only 75km further on we drove into Boulia, a small town which is the starting point for those travelling to Bedourie and Birdsville via the Diamantina Developmental Road or to Alice Springs or Darwin via the Plenty Highway. We're camped in the Boulia Caravan Park alongside the Burke River - tradition has it that the river was named by Burke and Wills when they filled their water containers here on their ill-fated expedition. We've really gained admiration for the early explorers and the hardships they had to suffer during their travels. We've taken the easy option of having power so we can run our air-conditioning to keep us cool, as the temperatures are up in the high 30sC ... and the flies are in plague proportions.
After we set up camp we visited the Stonehouse Museum and Fossil Display which is not open over the weekend. The house was built in 1888 and remained in the family until the early 1970s. It's been kept furnished as it was when the family lived there.
Behind the house is the Fossil Display, which has a great display of ancient marine fossils - pleiosaurs, ichthyosaurs, turtles, fish, ammonites and part of a kronosaurus. These have been privately collected by local Dick Suter, in this area which was part of the Great Inland Sea 100 million years ago. Only a couple of dinosaur bones have been found, but the area abounds in marine fossils. Well worth the visit.
Other displays at the museum are photos and artefacts of local history and a display of farm machinery. A new one for us was this piece of "space junk", apparently part of a 1960s US rocket, which landed in the area.
The other claim to fame of the area between Middleton, 150km east of Boulia and Dajarra, 150km north on the road to Mount Isa, is the Min-Min Lights. These mysterious lights have no explanation - but they're real enough. Everyone in the area has a Min-Min story. Many, like our guide at the Stonehouse Museum, have seen the lights. Sometimes they're scary, and sometimes they're friendly. One thing all the stories have in common is that you don't find them, they find you! (Cue the theme from The Twilight Zone......)
At the Visitor Information Centre is the Min-Min Encounter, a theatrical experience with many stories and theories about the lights. It was well worth the admission price to see the 45 minute show.
As with most of the small country towns we're staying in, there's a well equipped swimming pool run by the council. This one also has a sporting complex with squash courts, basketball court and gym. A great facility in this remote town. We'll be back for another swim later this afternoon.
The Waddi Tree marks the corroborate grounds for the local Pitta-Pitta tribe and neighbouring districts. It is sacred to the region's indigenous people.
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